Women Of A Certain Age ... With Attitude!

2004-07-07T13:46:00.000-07:00

Arriving home at JFK - "glad to be home."

The Last Few Days Of Our Trip

2004-07-05T13:19:00.000-07:00

This post covers Saturday, July 3, Sunday, July 4 and Monday July 5, 2004.

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Saturday, July 3, 2004

We found out last night that Mohammed was released on bail and went home to his wife and children. But this arrest and beating will not stop him. He will continue fighting against the occupation until he is not merely free from jail, but free from the Israeli government's horrific occupation as well. We are all so happy for him. Tonight, his friend Ibrahim (who we met our first night in Biddu), will host a celebration bar-b-cue for him. We're all invited, but are very tired, so we'll beg off and just have dinner in Ramallah.

This will be a busy day, though. There is going to be a women's silent vigil in Al-Ram (the town where last week's march took place.) We must all wear white tops and carry black signs with personal slogans relating to the atrocious wall. Huwaida will supply us with the materials for sign-making, but it is up to us to do the work. Piece of cake for me.

We have 4 hours - except at noon we are all going to the opening celebration of a photo exhibit about the wall and the violence associated with it. It is in the cultural center in the town of Beitunia, a part of Ramallah. The exhibit is very moving. So is the film that is shown - even though it is in Arabic, the images are chilling. After the movie, we are taken to see where the wall in this part of Ramallah is being constructed.

"They have taken 1.200 of our acres, including our wells. We will have no water supply",

we are told by one of the residents. The sickest part is that there is no reason for this wall to be built here - what it is doing, is separating Palestinian from Palestinian. There are no settlements here. It's infuriating.

We rush back to the Retno Hotel and finish our signs just in time. Another rush to the checkpoint. And then it's really hurry up and slow down. The border soldiers take their time checking papers and passports of those who are going through, and it's 45 minutes till we're all through. Another van to take us to Al-Ram and we arrrive at 3:45 - the vigil was to be from 3 - 4, so we're able to stand for 15 minutes. We line up, side by side, and all the media flocked to us and our pictures were being taken by them all. And don't you know that it's US on the front page of Sunday's Arabic newspaper! We were very surprised, to say the least.

Huwaida, in the meantime, informs Doreen that Ibrahim has made it very clear that he wanted her (Doreen) to attend the bar-b-cue, so that means that Carol and I will go, too, as well as Susan, Joya and Judy. However, when you live with checkpoints, you have to watch the time, as the one in Kalandia closes at 10:00. That might mean that only going INTO Jerusalem will be closed, but we're not really sure.

Here are the WCA women (and their hats) in front of the Retno Hotel as we depart from Ramallah.

Through the same checkpoint as the morning (you have to know that this checkpoint - Kalandia - is about 15 minutes from Ramallah, so it means a van or taxi to get there.) This time there's hardly any line so we breeze through, get another van and we're off to Biddu - not too far, but there is a roadblock that we have to pass which means getting out of this car and then taking another one. But our driver is clever and goes around the long way, to avoid the roadblock and takes us right to Ibrahim's door.

The grill isn't even started yet, and we know that we have to eat and run, because of the damn checkpoint. We watch him put charcoal into the grill and then he and his sons turn on a blowtorch that's connected to a propane tank like the ones we use at home and that's how he lights the grill! We were astonished by this. He just blowtorched the coals until they were lit - it was pretty quick, actually, although I felt it was also very dangerous.

Dinner was great - beginning with a delicious soup, then salads, bread, lamb kebobs and chicken. We ate like pigs and after quick cups of coffee, rushed out of there back to the Kalandia checkpoint (which was open for us) and to Ramallah. We went to Sangria's with some of the group for drinks and were joined by Raji and Faris.

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Sunday, July 4
Happy Independence Day!!

Today's the day we go back to Jerusalem for the final leg of our journey. We're all so tired, so we sleep in. We take our group "hat" photo, have a quick (uh, not so quick) meeting and we're off for Kalandia checkpoint, to go through with our luggage (that is checked randomly) and into another van for the Knight's Palace Hotel in Jerusalem. Our room is an oven. We'll never sleep tonight. What else is new?

Dinner is at Pasha's Place with Patricia from Spain - except she thinks it's called Philadelphia because the Philadelphia Restaurant is right next door and there's a bit of confusion. But dinner was good and we're fine after a few drinks anyway.

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Monday, July 5, 2004

Shopping, last minute errands, internet, uploading photos, writing, caption writing, and meeting with two women's groups.

Sabeel is one of them. It's an ecumenical grassroots liberation movement among Palestinian Christians. It's an ecumenical center for Palestinian Liberation Theology which seeks to make the Gospel contextually relevant. In Arabic, Sabeel means 'The Way' and also a 'Spring of Water'. Sabeel strives to develop a spirituality based on justice, peace, nonviolence, liberation and reconciliation for the different national and faith communities. Sabeel also works to promote a more accurate international awareness regarding the identity, presence, and witness of Palestinian Christians. And the women who we met there were brilliant, articulate fabulous women! Unfortunately, we had to rush through the meeting because, back at the Knight's Palace, we were going to be meeting with 2 Machsom Watch women. They, too, were wonderful and are doing a fantastic job to help end the occupation.

And that, it seems, is the end. At least for now.

WCA -- The Trip Continues ...

2004-07-04T07:40:00.000-07:00

Wednesday, June 30, 2004

Some more touring of the Old City section of Jerusalem and then back to Biddu.

Doreen and Carol at the Market in the Old City - Jerusalem.

The Western Wall.

A roadblock on our way to Biddu from Jerusalem. The purpose?
Just to make life miserable for local people who have to go about their business.

Meeting outside the ISM apartment in Biddu.

We found out last night that today we were to go to Jerusalem to the Supreme Court hearing on the legality of the Wall in the 8 villages in the Biddu area. Once again, loading into vans (to take 15 or so of us) to the roadblock where we have to disembark and walk through the well-placed concrete boulders to load into new vans that will take us all the way into Jerusalem. When you move as such a big group, it often takes much more time than when you're with just a few, so, unfortunately, when we got the beautiful, modern Supreme Court building, we found the lobby already teeming with people, reporters and some soldiers.

We find out, while standing outside the Israeli Supreme Court, that the judges have ruled against the wall.

We were not sure of what was going on, but shortly learned that the judge ruled in the favor of the Palestinians and that the work on the wall must stop. That which was built had to be taken down and the uprooted olive trees must be replaced. Unfortunately, the building will begin again as soon as new parameters are negotiated equally ensuring "security" for the Israelis while securing Palestinian rights. In other words, the Wall will still be built but with some modifications.

Eileen, Hedy, Susan and Judy were all elated with the Supreme Court decision. To be sure a partial victory, but a victory nonetheless!

Some of us and journalist, Adam Keller.

It's quite clear, being here, that the Israelis are very secure in their settlements and the Palestinians pose no threat to them. What is also very clear is that thousands and thousands of acres of land has been taken from a very peaceful, beautiful people, separating families from their farmland, water supply and even other family members and friends. It is truly unjust and completely unjustified. You only have to talk to the residents of Biddu or any other village to know that. It's very difficult for us to witness all the ineqities in this system. We're so often brought to weeping when we speak about it.

The rest of Wednesday was spent in an internet cafe for me, but the others attended another hearing - for Mohammed Abu Hadeel. He was the man beaten and arrested by the police at last Saturday's demonstration. The judge, in this case, put off the ruling until Friday because she was ready to let him go, but the Israeli government was appealing that decision. Poor Mohammed had to spend 2 more days in jail.

The whole group met back at the Internet Cafe, which is just inside the New Gate of the Old City (is that an oxymoron?) Judy and I had walked across the street to the Notre Dame Hotel where we had drinks and a snack on their lovely terrace. We were met by the rest of the group and decided to have dinner there. We now had to go back through the roadblock to our luxurious "Biddu Hilton" for the night.

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Thursday, July 1, 2004

Thursday there was an action in Tulkuram that only Gail, Jenny and Ann went to - they were going to try to stop the bulldozers from building the wall. The rest of us were concerned about violence and safety, so we opted out. Those who stayed back slept late, had breakfast at The Restaurant and trekked up to the "apartment." Carol immediately lay down and napped, while some others washed out some clothes and chatted. Hedy and I ended up napping, too, and it felt very good. The heat and the constant talking and being with people is very tiring, not to mention the emotional drain of just being where we are.

Early morning bread baking in Biddu.

The group leaving for the action -- they would remove roadblocks!

We has a meeting with Mohammed's wife at about 8, so we went for dinner at The Restaurant (yes, the same one were we had breakfast - the only one in town.) Mansour joined us and we met a very lovely, calm woman and her 5 beautiful children. While she didn't speak English very well, it was far superior to our Arabic, so we were able to communicate. One thing she said was, "I know what was and what is, but I do not know what will be." She also said, "I don't understand everything you say, but I feel it in my heart." We were very touched by her and the visit. We hope everything turns out well for this beautiful, gentle family.

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Friday, July 2, 2004

Today we transfer from Biddu (through the roadblock again), but this time back to Ramallah and the Hotel Retno. So now we have to go through the checkpoint. However, going IN to the Occupied Territory does not require stopping and showing passports. That's for when you go into Jerusalem. We schlepped Gail's, Jenny's and Ann's bags, because they stayed in Tulkuram to be able to take part in today's action - removing road blocks! Doreen was exhausted so she stayed at the hotel and the rest were taken to the bus station in Ramallah where we boarded a bus for Tulkuram. After about a 1 1/2 hour bus ride, we arrived in the very old, tiny village of Kufr Al-Labad, just outside Tulkuram. The assembled group was about 60-strong, and we found them inside and outside the small Sports Club, that seemed to be the center of the town. Jan, Eileen and I decided not to go on the action, as we feared there might be violence (or at least tear gas to run from) and it was extremely hot and we thought it might be too difficult.

This is Mohammed, our wonderful trainer and friend who joined some of the women in removing the roadblocks.

The group left in many cars to the site and we were left with about 10 boys and men in this place. They didn't know what to do with us. The brought out bottles of Coke and orange soda (which we obligingly drank) and then started giving us Arabic lessons. They were really adorable boys and very, very friendly. We said we'd like to see their village, so, with much pride, they led us up the hill on a walking tour. This village, Kufr Al-Labad, like so many in the area we've been staying, is built in the hills. We hiked to the very top from where we were able to see miles and miles and miles. There was a graveyard there and that's where their mosque is, as well. We found that people live in all different kinds of homes - we were taken through what seemed to be an alleyway, and encountered an elderly couple in the doorway to their home - it was completely hidden from the street, and the kitchen sink was outside in this covered alley.

A beautiful little girl from Kufr Al-Labad.

The old graveyard in Kufr Al-Labad. You can see for miles as the village is built high up on a hill.

An old couple who were eager to pose. Kids, left, are the same everywhere.

We continued along and were led up some steep stone steps right into another man's living room. The TV was on, there was a rug on the floor, a couch, tables and a kitchen along one wall, but the door seemed just to be an opening. He offered us coffee, but we were able to beg off because we were worried about the others coming back and finding us missing. On the way down we passed many barber shops which we found unusual - at lease 3, and we were told that there are 6 in the village. The boys insisted on buying us ice cream, which was very welcome at that point, as we were extremely hot and hungry by then. We slowly and carefully made our way back to the sports center, where we figured we'd wait for our comrades to return.

We weren't there but 5 minutes when another man arrived with a small truck. He told us to come with them to eat - only 5 minutes he said. We protested (to no avail) and climbed down the steps to the street. What could it hurt to go away for 5 minutes? We began to walk up the hill again, but were ushered into the back of the truck (it was more like a paddy wagon) and the 5 minutes turned out to be a 5-minute ride to a beautiful patio overhung with grape vines. We took seats way at the end of some very long tables - who were these women setting up for? Tons of food for 3 women? It was very bizarre, but we ate their own olives, olive oil, freshly-baked flat bread, a fabulous home-made cheese that was still warm, yogurt and lebne. We are always overwhelmed by the generosity of all the people we meet. Here we are, privileged North Americans being treated to this enormous meal - and we were strangers! It was really great, but we were still the only ones eating.

After we stuffed ourselves, my phone rang and it was Gail saying that the action was a fabulous success and the men were singing and shouting! Everyone was so spirited and excited - there was no opposition at all, and they successfully removed 4 road blocks around the town (with the aid of a tractor for the largest boulders.) We were still talking when I heard singing and shouting coming from the street outside the garden where we were. It was The Group, and they were returning here to feast! This, I realize is why these beautiful people can be so generous - They are so very grateful to us, for what we are trying to do for them. That we give our energy and perhaps even risk our lives for them, is somthing they cannot ignore. It was a most exhilarating day, even though I didn't directly take part in the action. It will be our turn to give back when we get home and convey our experiences to everyone we meet so that one day the occupation will end and peace will come to the Middle East.

A victorious and elated Carol returns from the action where roadblocks were laboriously removed.

At the celebration of the successful removal of three roadblocks.

Two happy, delightful women from the village.

In the village.

This man loved being photographed.

We say goodbye to the kids of Kufr Al-Labad.

We took a van directly back to the Retno and found Doreen much more rested and showered and happy. Raji was joining us for dinner which was going to be in a Chinese Restaurant in Ramallah (yes, Chinese) It was very, very good. We had drinks, lots of good food and chatter. One thing to note - as we were walking up the steps to the place the power went out, so we had to continue by flashlight and candlelight. We began our meal with candles, but the power was restored shortly and then we not only had light, but air conditioning, as well. A very long, long wonderful day.

Another Day In Biddu

2004-06-30T06:33:00.000-07:00

Tuesday, June 29, 2004

Before we knew it, the sun was shining into our uncurtained room (not really a bedroom) and we were up. We sort of bathed - more like quickly washed up - in the very dusty bathroom. Because of the conditions here with lots of demolition and destruction, the fine, sand-colored dirt flies all over and lands on every surface. Our black clothes are streaked with it, as well as our bags and everything else we own. So we have to mind where we put things and are constantly cleaning and dusting ourselves off.

We had coffee and/or tea for breakfast at The Restaurant and then met the others to attend the Women's Meeting that was taking place. They were going to discuss today's action, protesting the building of the wall, and would be holding elections. There have been two women's protests before in Biddu. The last protest was peaceful, but the first ended with horses being brought in by the soldiers and there were some injuries. I was worried about what would happen today, and also concerned about the heat, as the protest was to begin at 3:00.

We got to the meeting to find about 50 of the townswomen and their children seated in a small room. They were all traditionally dressed, wearing beautiful, colorful dresses and head coverings, creating a splendid vision. We were warmly welcomed, with many of the women quickly moving about to arrange seats for us. We sat among them and listened as a lively discussion began about the protest that was planned for the day. They decided that they did not want to go ahead with it because school was out and there was fear that some of the young boys might come along and taunt the soldiers with stone-throwing. I was relieved.

Participants in the women's meeting in Biddu.

Doreen and Hedy listening attentively at the women's meeting.

The next order of business was the election - all the candidates were introduced and a ballot was shown to the audience with all the names (about 10.) They were instructed to vote for 6 and, one-by-one, walked into another room to cast their ballots. While the voting was taking place, I was making friends - mostly with the children, although some of the beautiful women engaged me in conversation using very broken English, but, nonetheless, making themselves understood. I took some wonderful pictures of the children (and some moms) after being given permission by the mothers.

Don't cry little one. Mama's coming right back after she casts her ballot.

Just look at that face!

Amelia likes Stacey's hair.

When the meeting was over, we walked with a few of the participants toward a site where the olive trees were uprooted. These very industrious and determined people took some of the uprooted trees and replanted them - hoping the will take root in their new home, and, remarkably, some have. We talked with them about the situation, and Mansour's aunt, Ayesha, came by and I photographed her with our Ayesha. Each step of the way, we are thrilled by the warmth, generosity, friendliness, openness of these fabulous people. On the road we ran into the head of the Sports Center where some of us are staying and invited us to have lunch on him at The Restaurant (third time in as many meals.)

Walking to see the land where the olive trees once thrived.

Some olive trees were salvaged and replanted. Many, many others were uprooted by the Israelis to make way for their road. Olive trees can be hundreds of years old. One more tragedy of the occupation.

After lunch we met, once again, at the house up the hill. Climbing up to this house, one could be in any southern European region, except for the fact that there is obvious destruction all around. The upstairs neighbors have many children who are thrilled with all the internationals who come by and eagerly run down or look over the porch wall to say hello and play. They are a delightful addition.

At 5:00 Mansour was to fetch us to visit his aunt's home. Five turned out to be 6:30, but that's the way it goes over here, so we weren't that surprised. Into another van to a lovely home where we were served tea and juice and discussed a pressing issue for the women - how can they recover what has been taken from them - their land and their crops. It is their hope to get greenhouses and have asked us to help them with their project. Because Biddu is such a small village, the oppression is more visible here, and we will try to do what we can to ease the suffering of these people.

In Aunt Ayesha's home.

Now I'm off to try to get on to the internet. There was only dialup, so I can forget about loading photos. And then the computer I was working on was really malfunctioning, and so after 2 hours when I thought I was sending an email, I lost it all, and, oh well, this is Palestine. Once again I have to remind myself that soon I'll be home with all my creature comforts and the Palestinians will still be here coping with whatever miseries their oppressors send their way. Let's keep everything in perspective and let's not stop fighting!

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To see all of Stacey's Biddu photos, take a look at her Smugmug site. Click here.

To Biddu we go!

2004-06-30T05:24:00.000-07:00

Monday, June 28, 2004

This is the day we go to Biddu, once again taking 2 vans for the 13 of us WCAers, this time being stopped by a roadblock - no checkpoint, just boulders and barriers in the road to impede travel, to make people's lives even more miserable. We get out of the vans, walk through the roadblock, and then into two more vans to take us to the center of the village. Biddu is very close to Jerusalem, the whole trip took less than an hour.

Shora, the ISM coordinator in Biddu, met us in the center of the village and walked us up (and I mean UP) the hill to the house where some of us will stay for our 4 days. We rested and talked and visited until about 5:00 when Mansour, co-coordinator, took us to tour the construction site. That's what's going on in Biddu - the Israeli's are building a new road - not for the Palestinians, but for the settlers - to go to and from their settlement. The have bulldozed a wide swath of about 30 feet uprooting olive trees, gardens, farms, fields and demolishing homes. As of this moment they have built a one-foot high, 8-inch wide concrete slab on top of which they will install a fence (the Biddu part of the "wall".) This 'road' is about 10 - 12 feet below grade, so the man whose house is right up against it cannot walk on it. We saw the home of a family that fled - leaving beds, curtains, remnants of a life that was suddenly transplanted.

The new road -- built just for the settlers, no one else will be allowed to use it.

We were introduced to Ibrahim whose house was spared because of the work of internationals who protested its demolition. He is a beautiful man who is filled with pride, though his sadness is very apparent. He was joined, briefly, by his son, and many local children who were enthralled by us - particularly the camera that they were able to see themselves on immediately. It's no surprise that children all around the world are the same - filled with happiness, eagerness, curiousity and innocence. We wish they will all be safe and free very soon.

Ibrahim, his son and Mansour.

Kids on our walk through Biddu. The peace sign is universal.

We walked along with Ibrahim toward the settlement where he wanted to show us a Palestinian house that has been completely surrounded by fencing, with a fenced-in path leading to the main road, separating it from the settlement that was built around it. It was unbelievable! And they even built a watchtower for it, just in case those Palestinian children might throw a ball into their space. The reality of the situation, Mansour told us, is that the young women settlers parade around scantily clad in the neighborhood that is adjacent to this home which is inhabited by religious Muslims. It's outrageous. But they will not give up - they will endure.

A house sits empty - fenced in to separate it from the settlements and then abandoned.

Dinner was at THE restaurant in town - the ususal Palestinian fare - falafel, shawarma, grilled lamb and all the accoutrements. Really delicous - and a bargain at about $4 each. We picked up our bags at the ICM house and Mansour took 7 of us, Doreen, Gail, Jenny, Ann, Hedy and me to the Community Sports Center (where the boys hang out) in the village where we'll sleep. It ain't the Hilton! But putting 7 women of a certain age in a bedroom together is like putting 7 teenage girls together. We were up half the night talking and laughing, till, one by one, we fell sleep. Morning came very early!

Main Street, Biddu.

Dinner at a restaurant in Biddu.

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Publisher's note: If you'd like to see all of Stacey's photos of Biddu just click here.

A day off - in Jerusalem.

2004-06-30T03:50:00.000-07:00

BREAKING NEWS!! . The court ordered construction on the infamous Wall to stop immediately and ruled it illegal in its present form. Stacey informs us that the women were outside the Supreme Court when this historic decision was handed down.

This just in from theAssociated Press!

JERUSALEM (AP) -- The Israeli Supreme Court on Wednesday ordered changes in the route of the country's West Bank separation barrier, saying the current route is causing too much harm to the local Palestinian population.

The court said the changes must be made, even at the risk of reducing Israeli security. The decision dealt a setback to Israel's defense establishment.

Israel says the barrier is needed to block Palestinian suicide bombers from the West Bank. Palestinians have said the complex of fences, trenches and razor wire is a land grab.

The construction dips deep into the West Bank in some areas, and has disrupted the lives of thousands of Palestinians. About a quarter of the 425-mile barrier has been completed.

``The route disrupts the delicate balance between the obligation of the military commander to preserve security and his obligation to provide for the needs of the local inhabitants,'' the ruling said.

``The route ... injures the local inhabitants in a severe and acute way while violating their rights under humanitarian and international law,'' it said.

.......

These dispatches, as noted, are coming in sporadically. Here, Stacey describes a day of touring in the Old City, the historic section of Jerusalem.

But first, some more photos of the aborted demonstration of the day before in Al-Ram and the women and their ISM trainers enjoying a lovely dinner afterwards.

.......

The women and Faris (an ISM trainer) venture out of their refuge during a lull in the tear gas attack.

We encountered more tear gassing and then, suddenly, a sound bomb was exploded, a horrible device which set our ears ringing and sent us running for safety once again.

By 5:30 Al-Ram was quiet once again and returning to a normal Saturday evening.

Jenny and Jan embrace. It was a very emotional day!

Ann and Jenny at dinner that evening.

Joya, Ayesha and Raji.

>
Gail, Doreen, Stacey, Jan and Jenny .

Huwaida finally arrives.

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Sunday, June 27

We had a lazy morning because we were going to leave Ramallah that day for Jerusalem, which we did. Once again vans to the checkpoint,then exit the vans, then walking through the checkpoint, this time having to open our bags to be checked, and then another two vans to take us to the Gloria Hotel near the Jaffa Gate of the old city.

We checked in and decided to go out in small groups, meeting back at the hotel after dinner. Doreen, Carol, Eileen, Gail and I walked through the narrow, narrow streets of the old city with colorful stalls on either side selling everything from spices and dried fruit, fresh fruit and vegetables, kitchen wares, scarves and shawls, rugs, jewelry, T-shirts, electronics. Because tourism is down, all of the vendors were calling out to us to come into their shops to buy. It's very tempting, and we will come back here when we return to Jerusalem.

We continued on to the Wailing Wall which we found very interesting. It's always moving to stand among ruins that are almost as old as history. From the wall, we started back to the hotel through the streets, but found that it was going to be further than we thought, so we took cabs back to the hotel where we found a delightful restarant and were able to eat outside in a lovely garden. We ended our day with another meeting. Yes, there are many meetings, but when you have 13 women (of ANY age) working together, without one designated leader, you get 13 opinions and it takes wome work to get minds to meet.

No news today

2004-06-29T13:22:00.000-07:00

Sorry friends. Due to computer problems in Palestine, there's no update on the Blog today. Hopefully, we will hear from our loved ones tomorrow. - Matt

The Women Of A Certain Age.

Training, marching and tear gas.

2004-06-28T03:50:00.000-07:00

Publisher's note: These logs will, apparently, be sporadic due to the difficulty of getting a connection and the amount of time involved. We'll do our best, under the circumstances, to keep you informed.
.......

After being reunited with the other women, some of us went out for a very late dinner and drinks at a cute restaurant called Stones. We got in very late, but had to be up early to begin training in the morning. We met our trainers, Mohammed and Faris, who were so great - thorough, patient, and, not to mention adorable and very handsome. They were joined later by Raji, and then Gabe showed up, too. We worked all day, listening, taking notes, and finally role-playing. One involved getting us ready for tomorrow's first action, so some of us were protesters and some were soldiers. I don't know how well we did, but we had fun - I don't think that it's supposed to be fun, so maybe we didn't do so well!

A silhouette of Joya in front of an amazing sunset view from the hotel. (We had some down time during training.)

"No! You won't take him." Role-playing during our trainng. The two men are holding on to their comrade as the Army tries to take him.

Huwaida finally arrived after a very long day - for us and for her.

Our training guys - Faris, Mohammed, Gabe and Raji.

Saturday, June 26, is the first day of Freedom Summer, and today's action was a protest at the infamous Wall that Israel is building.

There were to have been several marches at different locations, and we were going to go to Kalandia. However that one was cancelled, so we joined with the march in Al-ram. Huwaida warned us that this place might be more "active" than Kalandia, but we felt prepared.

Once again we had to go through the checkpoint - we chose to do it with the Palestinians, not the "priveleged" foreigners. We had no trouble, though, and once through got 2 vans to take us to our destination. We were full of emotions - happy, worried, scared and feeling very brave. We got out of the vans a few blocks from the march (it was 3:15 and the march began at 3) and heard drumming.

The Kalandia check point. The wall is seen here, as well as a lookout tower.

Waiting at the Kalandia checkpoint. The disruption to every day lives is enormous. Simple tasks like getting to your job, keep a doctor's appointment, taking the kids to school -- that should normally take minutes can easy take many hours or never get done at all.

Gail gets through the checkpoint.

On our way - hearing the drums and weeping with joy. The excitement of the moment was overwhelming.

Marching against the Wall ... reminiscent of our Freedom Summer in the States 40 years ago.

Walking towards the site, we encountered a large dirt lifter blocking the road so we had to walk around it, to follow the sound of the music and came upon 3 marching bands - in full uniform, with drums and batons and lots of enthusiasm. Gail admitted to me later that it filled her with so much emotion that she had to cry, and I told her that I was crying too. One of the bands was composed of children - maybe seven years old. So cute, so happy, so proud! We tried to get away from them, just because the drums were so loud, so, with our buddies, walked briskly along the outside of the line of the march.

Here was the source of the drumming we heard as we joined the march -- a troop of young Palestinian boys, proud as could be.

Little drummer boys marching against the hated Wall.

We hadn't been there for more than 10 minutes when we heard the explosion - the soldiers were shooting tear gas at us! I couldn't believe it. Here we were marching with CHILDREN and now we had to be running from tear gas. Thanks to our wonderful trainers the day before, we moved fast and got to safety. We found ourselves inside a lobby with 3 shops on either side. The propietor of one called us into his shop and quickly closed the door. He was so wonderful - he sprayed us with perfume to help overcome the tear gas and let us sit there. Once again we were filled with tears - but not of joy. Thankfully, we were fine, but not everyone was. Also in the building, upstairs, was an emergency medical office, so we were privy to many people coming in on stretchers and being whisked up the narrow staircase, and even one or two being taken away by ambulance. I felt like I was under seige. But all along I had to keep reminding myself that it would be over soon and we were OK.

We took refuge in this store. Air conditioned and very friendly.

Some people were more overcome by the tear gas and had to be treated medically.

An "international" with his home-made sign.

The smoke in this photo is from a burning tire, not tear gas. This is a quiet moment between tear gassings.

The tear gas continued for almost an hour, although we were able to go outside from time to time to see how things were progressing. There was someone selling ice cream right in front of the building, and every now and then we had to run inside because there was more tear gas. At last, Huwaida suggested that we try to leave - and we walked slowly, slowly as a group, once again, to get out of there. We were able to move one block as a sound bomb exploded right where we were. The noise is deafening and leaves you with ringing in your ears. Once again we were running, each worrying about the other and this time took refuge in a different building. It was only for a few minutes and then, when we came out, found that the soldiers were gone and the town of Al-ram was beginning to move into a mode of normalcy. Shops were opening, vendors were selling, residents were cleaning up and protesters were getting back on their buses and leaving. It was very eerie.

A disconnect between what should be and reality: an ice cream vendor waits out the tear gas. The chaos and destruction escapes logic and results in scenes like this.

We found out that 7 people were arrested (Palestinians and Israel peace activists) and Huwaida suggested that we go to the jail where they were being held. Easier said than done. Once again, 2 vans to the checkpoint, and then a bus driver convinced us he'd take us through to West Jerusalem to the police station. A border policeman entered the bus to see everyone's passports. Unfortunately, because we were going to the demonstration, some of us didn't have our passoports, only copies. This made them a bit angry and asked us to get off the bus. We eventually got through, but it held us up for about a 1/2 hour and all the traffic behind us, as well. But what do they care?

When the Israelis were finally released, they chose to remain in jail in solidarity with the Palestinians who had been arrested with them. There was nothing more for us to do, so once again we telephoned for 2 vans and drove back to the Kalandia checkpoint to get back to Ramallah. Getting in is not a problem.

We had a fabulous dinner in Ramallah that night at a beautiful restaurant with a huge garden, Al Baradauni. Faris and Raji joined us for the feast where the staff, as well as the food was exceptional. I'll never forget the Palestinian people - their kindness, friendliness, warm giving nature. All in the face of tear gas, sound bombs, house demolitions and prison walls being built around them. They are truly wonderful.

It was a very long, trying day, but we wanted to have a meeting and we did -- in our pajamas! We wanted to talk about our feelings and our thoughts, so we all met in Doreen's and my suite till almost 3 am. No wakeup call tomorrow - we could sleep in!

Our First Day In Israel

2004-06-26T03:33:00.000-07:00

Stacey in the WCA hat she designed for her group.

On Wednesday, June 23, we woke up to horrible weather - cloudy, rainy, threats of thunder storms. Mindy (Carol's daughter) kept checking the airport news (it's on the TV here - very convenient) and it seemed that our Cityhopper flight to Amsterdam from Eindhoven (where Mindy's house is) would be on time - we would leave at 5:30 p.m., get to Schipol at 6:50 and connect to our Amsterdam to Tel Aviv flight. Since we had time we went to downtown Eindhoven for some shopping - primarily to get some kind of folding seat so that Carol can rest her bad back on our treks. We were successful and also saw the beautiful shopping streets of the city. On our way back to the car, we had big shower that sent us running. But shortly after, the sun was shining again. And that's the kind of day it was.

Breakfast with Mindy.

When we got back to Mindy's, Dustin, her son, was home from school already, and Tarissa, her daughter, came home shortly thereafter. We had some lunch; Mindy's friend, Jacqueline, came over to see Carol and meet us; then Hans came home and we all piled into their car to the airport. In the meantime, it's not raining at all and the plane's on time. We found Hans's parents waiting for us at the airport - they wanted to say hello to Carol, too, and it started raining. When we got inside we found that the plane was delayed, and wouldn't arrive in Amsterdam till 7:15 - too late to make our connection, so we were routed to the train - we got 1st class tickets and off we went. It was raining, dark (at only 4:30) and cold. But we were very cheery because our real trip was finally beginning.

We got to Schipol just in the nick of time, as our bags were checked in and all we had to do was drop them off and run to the gate with our boarding passes. HA! When you travel to Israel, it seems, you have to get there literally 2 hours early to get checked and rechecked and board the plane almost an hour in advance. In other words, we missed the flight. With American anger we approached the KLM customer service and were very lucky to be able to get another flight (through Vienna) that would get us into Tel Aviv at 4 the next afternoon - only about 15½ hours late. Not too bad - better than 24 hours, we thought. KLM compted us into a very new, modern, gorgeous Sofitel near the airport. We took 2 rooms, although we were entitled to 3. Dinner was a buffet till 10:00. It was after 9 when we got to the hotel. We rushed downstairs to the dining room to a beautiful spread of cold hors d'oeuvres, hot soup (which was what we needed after all that rain and cold), a glass (or 3) of wine, and hot food, too - the fish was delicious! The beds in the room were the comfyest, the TV had a zillion channels - lots of English - we were in sheer luxury. And the bathroom...all marble, of course, but when we went in barefooted, we found that the floor was heated. Now THAT was true luxury!

Our flight to Vienna was very early, so we were sorry to have to skip breakfast and catch the 6:00 a.m. bus to the airport. We arrived in Vienna with just enough time to transfer to the Austrian Air flight to Tel Aviv. When we got to the gate, there were representatives from the airline (El-Al?) who asked us why we were going to Israel, had we ever been ther before, where were we staying, did we go to synagogue in Brooklyn? Because we didn't have hotel reservation, he seemed a bit perplexed, but told us to have a nice trip and sent us to identify our luggage and check that nothing had been put into it while on its way from Amsterdam.

Finally, boarding the plane for the last leg of our journey, we see that it's an El-Al flight, not Austrian Air. Hmmm. Quite perplexing - apparently they're partners. Oh, well, we decided to go with the flow and enjoy the ride. We arrived in Tel Aviv at 4:00 and nervously deboarded. We approached the Immigration booth as a trio and handed the woman our passports. Doreen spoke for us and told her that we would be touring for 12 days. She stamped us, we collected our luggage and we were in Israel! All our fears and worries were gone and we realized, were for naught. However, everyone in the WCA wasn't so lucky. Ann P. was detained on Tuesday and, refusing to be deported, is still waiting her trial, which, hopefully, will be on Sunday the 27th. We will all go to give her our support.

A first view of Israel from the bus window on the road to Jerusalem from the airport.

Damascus Gate in Jerusalem as the sun sets. Quite a site!

We decided to take a bus from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem - after trying for almost an hour to get through to Huwaida, to no avail - and go to the Knights Palace Hotel where all the others stayed the night before. They would help us get phones, change money and get to Ramallah where the training had begun as we arrived.

I loved what I saw - the sandy color of the mountainous land with the green trees interspersed - we viewed through the windows of the bus on the road to Jerusalem was overwhelming. And then Jerusalem with the crowded, narrow streets crammed with cars, people, shops with Hebrew and Arabic writing. It was so exciting, so unbelievable to finally be here. On the bus, we met a young Spanish woman who reports for the 3rd largest radio news network in Spain. Naturally, we asked her about her take on the situation here and, not surprisingly, she feels the same way we do, and gave us her card so we can contact her at the end of the week when we return to Jerusalem. She thought we were a unique group and we're anxious to tell her of our experiences.

The bus dropped us off at the New Gate to Old Jerusalem. It was a short walk to the Knights Palace Hotel - but short can be realtive. When you've been up since 5 a.m. and schlepping heavy suitcase (OK they have wheels, but still.) We were not only dragging our bags, but we were also dragging our asses. AND, naturally, the streets are cobblestone and uneven, and it was hard. But in a few monents we were at the hotel where the very friendly, gracious proprietor called Huwaida (Doreen's daughter-in-law; Adams's wife) for us. We had finally connected! We were told how to get cash, phones and a bus to the Kalandia checkpoint, where, once through, we could take a taxi to the hotel in Ramallah.

.....

It's now dark, crowded, crazy, and no more sidewalks. Just dusty, dry soil with many, many Palestinians hovering over us. They all wanted to give us a taxi ride to Ramallah, but no one seemed to know the hotel where the WCA was meeting - The Retno Hotel. Once again Huwaida came to our rescue (via cell phone), spoke to one of the drivers and he took us to the Retno. We were cheered when we go there - and we couldn't believe it, either! What a wonderful, exhilarating feeling to once again be united with all of our women -- this time in Palestine!

I'm ending here. The end of one VERY long day that began yesterday! How happy we are!

Oh no! The computers here just froze, so I hope to save this to notepad and be able to try it again later. If I can't - what a waste. And an hour's worth of uploading photos. Oh, well, this is nothing compared to what the palestinians have to go through every day.

Who we are and what we want.

2004-06-25T10:20:00.000-07:00

Women Of A Certain Age

We are Women Of A Certain Age.

We are traveling to Palestine in June, 2004 to learn, to observe, to meet people, to educate ourselves and to express our solidarity with the long-suffering Palestinian people.

We travel to learn so that we can bring back what we have learned. We will return to educate and inform our family, friends, co-workers, indeed, our fellow citizens to the true and terrible nature of the Israeli occupation.

We travel because we cannot remain silent in the face of such obvious injustice. We cannot remain silent when Israel builds an Apartheid wall that divides a people, that tears asunder villages from fields, people from their livelihoods. We cannot remain silent when illegal settlements are maintained and expanded onto other people's lands. We cannot remain silent as the Israeli army enforces the occupation with walls, fences, razor wire, checkpoints, roadblocks, tear gas, bullets and bombs fired from helicopters upon innocent people. We cannot remain silent when Israeli bulldozers (made in the USA) raze Palestinian homes creating thousands of new refugees in a land of refugees.

We travel to learn but we also travel to act! To raise our voices in protest against this horrible occupation. Many of us are Jews. As Jews, a people who have suffered terrible oppression, we feel compelled to speak out loudly and clearly in opposition to the policies of the Israeli government which are being used to occupy and subjugate another people. In that, we stand with the many Israelis who, themselves, oppose the occupation and Sharon's disastrous policies.

We are Women Of A Certain Age. We are older women. We are mothers, wives, sisters who are reaching out to the mothers, wives and sisters of Palestine. You are not alone! We are standing with you in your fight for human dignity and your right to build a country that may live in peace and friendship with the other nations of the world.

We can do no less.