Arriving home at JFK - "glad to be home." 

The Last Few Days Of Our Trip

This post covers Saturday, July 3, Sunday, July 4 and Monday July 5, 2004.

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Saturday, July 3, 2004

We found out last night that Mohammed was released on bail and went home to his wife and children. But this arrest and beating will not stop him. He will continue fighting against the occupation until he is not merely free from jail, but free from the Israeli government's horrific occupation as well. We are all so happy for him. Tonight, his friend Ibrahim (who we met our first night in Biddu), will host a celebration bar-b-cue for him. We're all invited, but are very tired, so we'll beg off and just have dinner in Ramallah.

This will be a busy day, though. There is going to be a women's silent vigil in Al-Ram (the town where last week's march took place.) We must all wear white tops and carry black signs with personal slogans relating to the atrocious wall. Huwaida will supply us with the materials for sign-making, but it is up to us to do the work. Piece of cake for me.

We have 4 hours - except at noon we are all going to the opening celebration of a photo exhibit about the wall and the violence associated with it. It is in the cultural center in the town of Beitunia, a part of Ramallah. The exhibit is very moving. So is the film that is shown - even though it is in Arabic, the images are chilling. After the movie, we are taken to see where the wall in this part of Ramallah is being constructed.

"They have taken 1.200 of our acres, including our wells. We will have no water supply",

we are told by one of the residents. The sickest part is that there is no reason for this wall to be built here - what it is doing, is separating Palestinian from Palestinian. There are no settlements here. It's infuriating.

We rush back to the Retno Hotel and finish our signs just in time. Another rush to the checkpoint. And then it's really hurry up and slow down. The border soldiers take their time checking papers and passports of those who are going through, and it's 45 minutes till we're all through. Another van to take us to Al-Ram and we arrrive at 3:45 - the vigil was to be from 3 - 4, so we're able to stand for 15 minutes. We line up, side by side, and all the media flocked to us and our pictures were being taken by them all. And don't you know that it's US on the front page of Sunday's Arabic newspaper! We were very surprised, to say the least.

Huwaida, in the meantime, informs Doreen that Ibrahim has made it very clear that he wanted her (Doreen) to attend the bar-b-cue, so that means that Carol and I will go, too, as well as Susan, Joya and Judy. However, when you live with checkpoints, you have to watch the time, as the one in Kalandia closes at 10:00. That might mean that only going INTO Jerusalem will be closed, but we're not really sure.


Here are the WCA women (and their hats) in front of the Retno Hotel as we depart from Ramallah.

Through the same checkpoint as the morning (you have to know that this checkpoint - Kalandia - is about 15 minutes from Ramallah, so it means a van or taxi to get there.) This time there's hardly any line so we breeze through, get another van and we're off to Biddu - not too far, but there is a roadblock that we have to pass which means getting out of this car and then taking another one. But our driver is clever and goes around the long way, to avoid the roadblock and takes us right to Ibrahim's door.

The grill isn't even started yet, and we know that we have to eat and run, because of the damn checkpoint. We watch him put charcoal into the grill and then he and his sons turn on a blowtorch that's connected to a propane tank like the ones we use at home and that's how he lights the grill! We were astonished by this. He just blowtorched the coals until they were lit - it was pretty quick, actually, although I felt it was also very dangerous.

Dinner was great - beginning with a delicious soup, then salads, bread, lamb kebobs and chicken. We ate like pigs and after quick cups of coffee, rushed out of there back to the Kalandia checkpoint (which was open for us) and to Ramallah. We went to Sangria's with some of the group for drinks and were joined by Raji and Faris.

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Sunday, July 4
Happy Independence Day!!

Today's the day we go back to Jerusalem for the final leg of our journey. We're all so tired, so we sleep in. We take our group "hat" photo, have a quick (uh, not so quick) meeting and we're off for Kalandia checkpoint, to go through with our luggage (that is checked randomly) and into another van for the Knight's Palace Hotel in Jerusalem. Our room is an oven. We'll never sleep tonight. What else is new?

Dinner is at Pasha's Place with Patricia from Spain - except she thinks it's called Philadelphia because the Philadelphia Restaurant is right next door and there's a bit of confusion. But dinner was good and we're fine after a few drinks anyway.

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Monday, July 5, 2004

Shopping, last minute errands, internet, uploading photos, writing, caption writing, and meeting with two women's groups.

Sabeel is one of them. It's an ecumenical grassroots liberation movement among Palestinian Christians. It's an ecumenical center for Palestinian Liberation Theology which seeks to make the Gospel contextually relevant. In Arabic, Sabeel means 'The Way' and also a 'Spring of Water'. Sabeel strives to develop a spirituality based on justice, peace, nonviolence, liberation and reconciliation for the different national and faith communities. Sabeel also works to promote a more accurate international awareness regarding the identity, presence, and witness of Palestinian Christians. And the women who we met there were brilliant, articulate fabulous women! Unfortunately, we had to rush through the meeting because, back at the Knight's Palace, we were going to be meeting with 2 Machsom Watch women. They, too, were wonderful and are doing a fantastic job to help end the occupation.

And that, it seems, is the end. At least for now.

WCA -- The Trip Continues ...

Wednesday, June 30, 2004

Some more touring of the Old City section of Jerusalem and then back to Biddu.


Doreen and Carol at the Market in the Old City - Jerusalem.


The Western Wall.


A roadblock on our way to Biddu from Jerusalem. The purpose?
Just to make life miserable for local people who have to go about their business.


Meeting outside the ISM apartment in Biddu.

We found out last night that today we were to go to Jerusalem to the Supreme Court hearing on the legality of the Wall in the 8 villages in the Biddu area. Once again, loading into vans (to take 15 or so of us) to the roadblock where we have to disembark and walk through the well-placed concrete boulders to load into new vans that will take us all the way into Jerusalem. When you move as such a big group, it often takes much more time than when you're with just a few, so, unfortunately, when we got the beautiful, modern Supreme Court building, we found the lobby already teeming with people, reporters and some soldiers.


We find out, while standing outside the Israeli Supreme Court, that the judges have ruled against the wall.

We were not sure of what was going on, but shortly learned that the judge ruled in the favor of the Palestinians and that the work on the wall must stop. That which was built had to be taken down and the uprooted olive trees must be replaced. Unfortunately, the building will begin again as soon as new parameters are negotiated equally ensuring "security" for the Israelis while securing Palestinian rights. In other words, the Wall will still be built but with some modifications.


Eileen, Hedy, Susan and Judy were all elated with the Supreme Court decision. To be sure a partial victory, but a victory nonetheless!


Some of us and journalist, Adam Keller.

It's quite clear, being here, that the Israelis are very secure in their settlements and the Palestinians pose no threat to them. What is also very clear is that thousands and thousands of acres of land has been taken from a very peaceful, beautiful people, separating families from their farmland, water supply and even other family members and friends. It is truly unjust and completely unjustified. You only have to talk to the residents of Biddu or any other village to know that. It's very difficult for us to witness all the ineqities in this system. We're so often brought to weeping when we speak about it.

The rest of Wednesday was spent in an internet cafe for me, but the others attended another hearing - for Mohammed Abu Hadeel. He was the man beaten and arrested by the police at last Saturday's demonstration. The judge, in this case, put off the ruling until Friday because she was ready to let him go, but the Israeli government was appealing that decision. Poor Mohammed had to spend 2 more days in jail.

The whole group met back at the Internet Cafe, which is just inside the New Gate of the Old City (is that an oxymoron?) Judy and I had walked across the street to the Notre Dame Hotel where we had drinks and a snack on their lovely terrace. We were met by the rest of the group and decided to have dinner there. We now had to go back through the roadblock to our luxurious "Biddu Hilton" for the night.

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Thursday, July 1, 2004

Thursday there was an action in Tulkuram that only Gail, Jenny and Ann went to - they were going to try to stop the bulldozers from building the wall. The rest of us were concerned about violence and safety, so we opted out. Those who stayed back slept late, had breakfast at The Restaurant and trekked up to the "apartment." Carol immediately lay down and napped, while some others washed out some clothes and chatted. Hedy and I ended up napping, too, and it felt very good. The heat and the constant talking and being with people is very tiring, not to mention the emotional drain of just being where we are.


Early morning bread baking in Biddu.


The group leaving for the action -- they would remove roadblocks!

We has a meeting with Mohammed's wife at about 8, so we went for dinner at The Restaurant (yes, the same one were we had breakfast - the only one in town.) Mansour joined us and we met a very lovely, calm woman and her 5 beautiful children. While she didn't speak English very well, it was far superior to our Arabic, so we were able to communicate. One thing she said was, "I know what was and what is, but I do not know what will be." She also said, "I don't understand everything you say, but I feel it in my heart." We were very touched by her and the visit. We hope everything turns out well for this beautiful, gentle family.

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Friday, July 2, 2004

Today we transfer from Biddu (through the roadblock again), but this time back to Ramallah and the Hotel Retno. So now we have to go through the checkpoint. However, going IN to the Occupied Territory does not require stopping and showing passports. That's for when you go into Jerusalem. We schlepped Gail's, Jenny's and Ann's bags, because they stayed in Tulkuram to be able to take part in today's action - removing road blocks! Doreen was exhausted so she stayed at the hotel and the rest were taken to the bus station in Ramallah where we boarded a bus for Tulkuram. After about a 1 1/2 hour bus ride, we arrived in the very old, tiny village of Kufr Al-Labad, just outside Tulkuram. The assembled group was about 60-strong, and we found them inside and outside the small Sports Club, that seemed to be the center of the town. Jan, Eileen and I decided not to go on the action, as we feared there might be violence (or at least tear gas to run from) and it was extremely hot and we thought it might be too difficult.


This is Mohammed, our wonderful trainer and friend who joined some of the women in removing the roadblocks.

The group left in many cars to the site and we were left with about 10 boys and men in this place. They didn't know what to do with us. The brought out bottles of Coke and orange soda (which we obligingly drank) and then started giving us Arabic lessons. They were really adorable boys and very, very friendly. We said we'd like to see their village, so, with much pride, they led us up the hill on a walking tour. This village, Kufr Al-Labad, like so many in the area we've been staying, is built in the hills. We hiked to the very top from where we were able to see miles and miles and miles. There was a graveyard there and that's where their mosque is, as well. We found that people live in all different kinds of homes - we were taken through what seemed to be an alleyway, and encountered an elderly couple in the doorway to their home - it was completely hidden from the street, and the kitchen sink was outside in this covered alley.


A beautiful little girl from Kufr Al-Labad.


The old graveyard in Kufr Al-Labad. You can see for miles as the village is built high up on a hill.


An old couple who were eager to pose. Kids, left, are the same everywhere.

We continued along and were led up some steep stone steps right into another man's living room. The TV was on, there was a rug on the floor, a couch, tables and a kitchen along one wall, but the door seemed just to be an opening. He offered us coffee, but we were able to beg off because we were worried about the others coming back and finding us missing. On the way down we passed many barber shops which we found unusual - at lease 3, and we were told that there are 6 in the village. The boys insisted on buying us ice cream, which was very welcome at that point, as we were extremely hot and hungry by then. We slowly and carefully made our way back to the sports center, where we figured we'd wait for our comrades to return.


We weren't there but 5 minutes when another man arrived with a small truck. He told us to come with them to eat - only 5 minutes he said. We protested (to no avail) and climbed down the steps to the street. What could it hurt to go away for 5 minutes? We began to walk up the hill again, but were ushered into the back of the truck (it was more like a paddy wagon) and the 5 minutes turned out to be a 5-minute ride to a beautiful patio overhung with grape vines. We took seats way at the end of some very long tables - who were these women setting up for? Tons of food for 3 women? It was very bizarre, but we ate their own olives, olive oil, freshly-baked flat bread, a fabulous home-made cheese that was still warm, yogurt and lebne. We are always overwhelmed by the generosity of all the people we meet. Here we are, privileged North Americans being treated to this enormous meal - and we were strangers! It was really great, but we were still the only ones eating.

After we stuffed ourselves, my phone rang and it was Gail saying that the action was a fabulous success and the men were singing and shouting! Everyone was so spirited and excited - there was no opposition at all, and they successfully removed 4 road blocks around the town (with the aid of a tractor for the largest boulders.) We were still talking when I heard singing and shouting coming from the street outside the garden where we were. It was The Group, and they were returning here to feast! This, I realize is why these beautiful people can be so generous - They are so very grateful to us, for what we are trying to do for them. That we give our energy and perhaps even risk our lives for them, is somthing they cannot ignore. It was a most exhilarating day, even though I didn't directly take part in the action. It will be our turn to give back when we get home and convey our experiences to everyone we meet so that one day the occupation will end and peace will come to the Middle East.


A victorious and elated Carol returns from the action where roadblocks were laboriously removed.


At the celebration of the successful removal of three roadblocks.


Two happy, delightful women from the village.


In the village.


This man loved being photographed.


We say goodbye to the kids of Kufr Al-Labad.

We took a van directly back to the Retno and found Doreen much more rested and showered and happy. Raji was joining us for dinner which was going to be in a Chinese Restaurant in Ramallah (yes, Chinese) It was very, very good. We had drinks, lots of good food and chatter. One thing to note - as we were walking up the steps to the place the power went out, so we had to continue by flashlight and candlelight. We began our meal with candles, but the power was restored shortly and then we not only had light, but air conditioning, as well. A very long, long wonderful day.